Category: Electricians

How to Install a Manual Transfer Switch for a Portable Generator

Steps:

Mount the manual transfer switch near the main electric panel.

Select up to 10 circuits to be powered by the generator (240 volt circuits require two spots on the transfer switch).

Turn off power to the house at the main electric shut off.

Remove the cover on the main electric panel (work inside the electric panel is only recommended for licensed electricians).

Locate an available knockout hole on the electric panel and remove the plug. Attach the armored cable from the transfer switch to the electric panel.

Connect the ground and neutral wires from the transfer switch to the appropriate bus bars on the main panel.

Locate the first circuit to be powered by the generator and remove the power wire on the existing circuit breaker. Replace that wire with the red wire from the transfer switch marked “A.” Splice the black wire marked “A” from the transfer switch to the removed power wire using a wire nut. Repeat this process for all 10 circuits, ensuring the red and black wires from the transfer switch are a matched pair.

Use 10-3 non-metallic wiring to connect the transfer switch to a power inlet outside.

Use the provided generator cord to connect the power inlet to the generator (or make your own cable if a longer one is desired using bulk wire and connectors).

Ensure the generator has unleaded fuel and oil inside, then start the generator.

To test the wiring connections, flip the switches on the transfer switch from “Line” to “Gen.” The generator should power the selected circuits.

Best Practices for Replacing Antique Light Switches

I’d recommend that you replace the original switches with new ones. Those switches were made with materials that may have become cracked, corroded, or fatigued in the last 100 years, and their design doesn’t meet today’s strict electrical-safety standards.

Fortunately, you don’t have to give up on the two-button look, or the satisfying snap that the buttons make when you push them in. Replacement switches and cover plates that look just like the antique versions, right down to the mother-of-pearl inlay on the buttons, are available from specialty retailers such as House of Antique Hardware.

Cost

Prices for a basic, single-pole, push-button switch begin around $14. You can also get an authentic-looking push-button dimmer switch, with one rotating button that functions as the dimmer.

Safety

The more important question to ask about a house of this age is: How safe is the wiring? I’ve seen electrical systems that have provided 100 years of service, or more, and l know what a high fire and electrical-shock hazard they pose. You’d be wise to take a close look and see what you’ve got.

SWITCHING GUIDE | DJT ELECTRICAL TRAINING

IMPORTANT: CORONAVIRUS

We are delighted to announce that DJT reopened for business from May,

with exceptional provisions in place to cater for the COVID19 requirements.

These provisions include:

Every surface has been deep-cleaned &/or repainted in full since the lockdown was implemented & is re-cleaned daily during courses

We have halved group sizes from a maximum of 24 to a maximum of 12 delegates at any one time to allow correct distances between the chairs & desks

We have developed a pre-course questionnaire which must be completed 48 hours prior to a course by anyone attending training

We will now run courses for groups as small as 6 delegates (whereas 10 used to be the minimum number)

We have purchased the FLIR E5 thermal-imaging camera for facial-temperature imaging, which we administer in seconds before training commences (pic attached)

We have non-contact LPOW HTD thermometer to take daily forehead-temperatures in seconds & record & display the results to the delegates

We have lowered the number of delegates taking their exams at any one sitting, in order for all delegates being examined to ensure the correct distancing between terminals

In electrical installations a switch is an electrical component that can break an electrical circuit, interrupting the current or diverting it from one conductor to another. The most familiar form of switch is a manually operated electromechanical device with one or more sets of electrical contacts. Each set of contacts can be in one of two states: either ‘closed’ meaning the contacts are touching and electricity can flow between them, or ‘open’, meaning the contacts are separated.

A switch may be directly manipulated by a human as a control signal to a system, such as to control power flow in a circuit, as in a light switch, or to isolate a supply, such as a Firemans switch. Automatically-operated switches can be used to control the motions of machines, for example, to indicate that a garage door has reached its full open position or that a machine tool is in a position to accept another work piece. Switches may be operated by process variables such as pressure, temperature, flow, current, voltage, and force, acting as sensors in a process and used to automatically control a system. For example, a thermostat is a temperature-operated switch used to control a heating process.

N/O & N/C Switches

In a push-button type switch, in which the contacts remain in one state unless actuated, the contacts can either be normally open (abbreviated “n.o.” or “no”) until closed by operation of the switch, or normally closed (“n.c. or “nc”) and opened by the switch action. A switch with both types of contact is called a changeover switch. These may be “make-before-break” which momentarily connect both circuits, or may be “break-before-make” which interrupts one circuit before closing the other.

Tilt Switch (SPST)

Tilt switches contain a conductive liquid and when tilted this bridges the contacts inside, closing the switch. They can be used as a sensor to detect the position of an object. Some tilt switches contain mercury which is poisonous.

Reed Switch (usually SPST)

The contacts of a reed switch are closed by bringing a small magnet near the switch. They are used in security circuits, for example to check that doors are closed. Standard reed switches are SPST (simple on-off) but SPDT (changeover) versions are also available.

Electrical Switch Overview

An electrical switch is a binary device, which means that a switch is either on (closed contacts) or off (open contacts). A switch can be any device that opens or closes an electrical circuit, and switches can range in from a simple on-off toggle switch to the large contactors, used to switch high power loads like electric motors, to more complex solid-state switches like a NPN or PNP bipolar transistor switch.

Though there are numerous switch designs, all provide the same basic function of opening and closing a circuit with a set of contacts. The following sections describe the basic components of mechanical switches, introduce important switch terms (e.g. normally-open and normally-closed contacts), and go over types of switches. The last section gives general information on how to select switches.

Basic Components in Electrical Switches

Actuator

A force must act on a switch in order to open or close the circuit, and the device that applies this operating force is called the actuator. Do not think actuating a switch means you are turning something on. Actuation just means changing the state of a switch’s contacts from either open to closed (making a connection) or closed to open (breaking a connection). Thus, a switch can be actuated to turn a device ON or OFF.

Armature

In mechanical switches the moving part of a switch that conducts the current between contacts is called the armature. Levers are commonly used as armatures.

Electrical Contacts

Wherever you have two pieces of conductive material separated by an insulated gap and connected to a circuit, you have electrical contacts. To be of any industrial value electrical contacts must be composed of metals that have a high resistance to corrosion and mechanical wear. There are only two possible states for any set of contacts:

Open / Break / Off – Contacts CANNOT conduct electricity (i.e. there is an insulated gap separating the contacts and preventing current flow)

Closed / Make / On — Contacts CAN conduct electricity (i.e. contacts are connected by some conductive material)

Accessories

Some switches come with attached cables, strain relief, and connectors, while other switches are sold where you just get the switch by itself. Browse our product guides for general information about the selection, function, and use of wires and cable, strain relief for flexible cables, and electrical connectors.

Rewired And Similar Installations

This section incorporates questions relating to:

New or rewired domestic and similar installations

Alterations and additions in domestic and similar premises

New installations (places of work)

You may notice that some numbers are missing from the Q&A. This is deliberate. The regulations are constantly updated and as questions become out of date, we remove them but do not renumber, as we are aware that visitors to the site will note specific numbers for future reference.

Q1.1. Do the Wiring Regulations require all 13 A socket-outlets to be RCD protected?

For new installations and rewires, all socket-outlets with a rated current not exceeding 32A need to have additional protection by RCD, except where other than for an installation in a dwelling, a documented risk assessment determines that the RCD protection is not necessary. It is the view of the forum that any decision to omit RCD protection should not be taken lightly

Q1.2. BS 7671 requires most if not all circuits in domestic premises to be RCD-protected. There have been a number of suggestions as to how the consumer unit may best be configured to comply with the Regulations, the most common being a main switch with RCBOs protecting each individual circuit. However, another suggestion favours a main switch with two RCDs protecting separate DIN rails. If careful consideration is given as to what each bar will control in the way of upstairs and downstairs lighting and power circuits, will this configuration comply?

Yes, as long as the division of final circuits between the RCDs is carefully considered so as to minimize the consequences of unwanted tripping. Separate RCD protection is not necessarily required for each circuit of an installation but, in order to minimize the likelihood and consequences of tripping, a single (‘front end’) RCD should not be used to protect all the circuits.

Q1.3. What electrical equipment and accessories can be installed in the area beyond zone 2 of a location containing a bath or shower basin?

Socket-outlets other than a SELV socket-outlet or a shaver supply unit are not permitted within 3 m horizontally from the boundary of zone 1.  In all other cases, only the general rules apply, in that equipment shall be of a design appropriate to the situation in which it is to be used or its mode of installation shall take account of the conditions likely to be encountered.

Q1.4. Do ‘meter tails’ concealed in walls or partitions need to be protected in accordance with Regulations 522.6.202, 522.6.203 and/or 522.6.204?

Yes. Meter tails concealed in a wall or partition at a depth of less than 50 mm from a surface must be protected in accordance with Regulation 522.6.202. Also, irrespective of the depth from a surface, meter tails concealed in a wall or partition having internal metallic parts (except nails and screws, etc.) are subject to the requirements of Regulation 522.6.203.

Outlets and Switches Guide

Outlets and switches can be easily overlooked in your home, but these functional pieces of hardware let you light, ventilate and power your appliances. Technological advances are giving outlets and switches exciting new capabilities, so learn what they can offer before you buy.

Outlet Types

Outlets make power easily accessible. They can also prevent electrical fires, keep users from being shocked and be turned on and off remotely. Different outlets have different uses, so learn more before making your purchase.

Amperage: The ampere, or amp, is the base unit of electric current. Outlets are rated by how many amps can flow through them at once without overheating and are attached to fuses that will shut off automatically if your outlet is using too many amps. Most outlets in your home are rated for 15 amps and attached to a 15-amp fuse with a few other 15-amp outlets and switches from the same room. If the total amount of amps used in that room surpasses 15 amps, the fuse will shut off to keep the outlets and wiring from overheating. Some appliances, like freezers and gas dryers, require 20-amp outlets.

GFCI vs. AFCI Outlets: Ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlets have sensors that measure the amount of current going in and out of the socket. The current going in and out is usually in balance but if the outlet detects an imbalance, it immediately shuts off. GFCI outlets are important to have in areas where electricity could meet, like bathrooms, laundry rooms and kitchens. Arc fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) outlets contain electronic components to monitor a circuit for the presence of dangerous conditions that could cause a fire. This outlet can be triggered to turn a circuit off quickly if dangerous arcing is detected.

Smart Outlets: Smart outlets can be controlled from your mobile device using the home’s wireless internet. These devices allow users to program outlets to power on and off at certain times, as well as control from inside and away from the outlet.

Tamper-/Weather-Resistant: Tamper-resistant outlets have spring-loaded shutters that close off the contact openings where you insert plugs. In order for the shutters to open, both springs must be compressed at the same time, so they don’t open if a child attempts to insert an object into one of the contact openings. Thousands of children suffer shock and burns yearly by sticking items into contact openings in outlets. Weather-resistant outlets offer protection from precipitation, humidity and UV-protected components.

LED light can damage eyes, health authority warns

New findings confirm earlier concerns that “exposure to an intense and powerful [LED] light is ‘photo-toxic’ and can lead to irreversible loss of retinal cells and diminished sharpness of vision,” the French Agency for Food, Environmental and Occupational Health & Safety (ANSES) warned in a statement.

The report distinguished between acute exposure of high-intensity LED light, and “chronic exposure” to lower intensity sources.

While less dangerous, even chronic exposure can “accelerate the ageing of retinal tissue, contributing to a decline in visual acuity and certain degenerative diseases such as age-related macular degeneration,” the agency concluded.

Long-lasting, energy efficient and inexpensive, light-emitting diode (LED) technology has gobbled up half of the general lighting market in a decade, and will top 60 percent by the end of next year, according to industry projections.

The basic technology for producing a white light combines a short wavelength LED such as blue or ultraviolet with a yellow phosphor coating. The whiter or “colder” the light, the greater the proportion of blue in the spectrum.

HOW-TO WIRE LIGHTS & SWITCHES IN A DIY CAMPER VAN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Ever live in a house that had lights you couldn’t turn off and on by a switch? No? Me either. Let’s keep that streak up. This blog post is going to teach you how to wire 12v lights (and any other 12v accessories) you want to control by a switch or two.

Quick note before we get started.  This is just one part of an overarching “How to Install a DIY Camper Van Electrical System” series.  If you’ve just stumbled on this article directly without seeing that, there are likely some things we’ve already covered

Also, we have interactive solar wiring diagrams that are a complete, A to Z solution for teaching you exactly what parts go where, what size wires to use, fuse size recommendations, wire lug sizes, and all kind of other stuff to help save you time and frustration

12V LIGHT SWITCH

For a standard light switch, you’re looking for a switch that technically called “Single Pole Single Throw”, or commonly abbreviated “SPST”. This is the most basic switch

12V 2-WAY SWITCH

HUGLY POPULAR and somewhat confusing, but we will straighten that out. The purpose of a 2 way switch is so that you can have a switch by your entry-way and another by, say, your bed so you can operate the lights.

Night lights have a dark side

In the days that followed, concerned residents reported a giant cloud of silvery light stretching across the night sky. Some worried that the mysterious sight was somehow related to the earthquake. These people had lived in the large, brightly lit city their entire lives. Many had rarely seen stars. They certainly had never before seen this night-sky cloud of light.

When artificial (human-made) light spills into areas where it’s not wanted, it’s called light pollution. Indeed, it is considered one of the biggest forms of pollution. It prevents two-thirds of U.S. residents and half of those in Europe from viewing the Milky Way. And light pollution increases every year, as cities continue to grow

That doesn’t mean electric lights are bad. They have allowed people to work and play beyond sundown for roughly a century. Lights along roadways can make driving safer. In many ways, lighting up the night has been a good thing

But there can be drawbacks. Sometimes lights that are meant to be helpful pose unintended harms. And this problem goes beyond our ability to enjoy the night sky. Research is revealing that light pollution can alter the behavior of plants, animals and people. Some unnatural light-dark cycles may even make us sick.

Lighting the night

More than 8,000 stars should be visible without a telescope. Up to 4,000 of those can be seen at one time. (The others hide below the horizon.) But to see most stars requires gazing well away from cities or other populated areas. People living in urban areas see only a tiny fraction of stars that were visible to our ancestors.

The Best LED Light Bulbs

Here at the Strategist, we like to think of ourselves as crazy (in the good way) about the stuff we buy, but as much as we’d like to, we can’t try everything. Which is why we have People’s Choice, in which we find the best-reviewed products and single out the most convincing ones.

And while we’ve written before about all sorts of lighting — including tips on how to rescue a rental with bad lighting, a list of energy-efficient bulbs, and a review of “trippy” mushroom-shaped night light  — here, we’ve rounded up the best LED light bulbs

They’re available in two different color temperatures: soft white and daylight. Both have their own draw, but in general, purchasers seem to prefer the slightly brighter “daylight” bulb for general use in their homes. One reviewer explains, “We had warm or soft white incandescent bulbs throughout the house, and I have been working on replacing them all with a bright white light.

Over 90 percent of the reviewers give these bulbs five-stars, with many highlighting the brightness of the light they put out and the affordability of this four-pack. “Great value for the cost per bulb,” writes one reviwer, one of dozens who uses the word “value” in their review. Another shares a more nuanced review: “I have a love-hate relationship with these lights. They are so bright and light up so well, I love it. Oh yeah, the hate relationship part, now I can see how dirty some areas in the house were that my old ugly yellow lights wouldn’t show before.”

light bulbs have great longevity. One reviewer, with a “big house” that’s apparently “always running out of lightbulbs,” suspects they “should last a long, long time while using a fraction of the electricity.” Even though they’re not too expensive, especially when you’re buying in bulk, she was “very surprised and pleased at the quality of these bulbs,” calling them “much better quality than old-school bulbs.” Another reviewer said she has a “near religious epiphany” after switching all her bulbs to these LED lights.

The History of the Light Bulb

The history of the light bulb is filled with rivalry, failures and great achievements. The electric light bulb has been called the most important invention since man-made fire. The light bulb helped to establish social order after sundown, extended the workday well into the night, and allowed us to navigate and travel safely in the dark. Without the light bulb, there would be no nightlife. However, creating a steady and affordable source of illumination was not as easy as many history textbooks suggest. The modern light bulb is the result of many innovators’ work and continuous improvements over 150 years.

The First Artificial Sources of Light

Before the arrival of electric lighting, people used a variety of tricks for navigating their neighborhoods at night. In The Downs, an area near the English Channel, patches of chalky soil were used as beacons known as down lanterns. In wooded areas, bark was strategically cut from trees to expose the lighter wood underneath. However, on most clear nights, the moon and starlight were strong enough to navigate at night.

During the 19th century, gas lighting replaced candles and oil lamps in many homes, businesses, and streets. Gas lamps produced a brighter and more efficient illumination. They also cost 75 percent less than candles or oil lamps, and were easier and safer to operate. By the 1850s, most city streets in the United States and Europe were illuminated by gas lamps. Gas lighting is credited with reducing crime rates and increasing literacy in many areas. As electricity became more widespread during the turn of the century, gas lamps were replaced by incandescent lamps in streets, businesses, and theaters.

The First Electric Lights

In 1802, Sir Humphry Davy, an English physician, created the first electric light by passing a current through a platinum strip. The glow did not last long, but it marked the beginning of the history of light bulbs. In 1809, Davy demonstrated the first carbon arc lamp at the Royal Institute in London by connecting two wires to a battery and attaching a charcoal strip between the other ends of the wires. While the scientific community and the public raved about the demonstration, the arc lamp burned too brightly and consumed a large amount of current, which quickly drained the battery and rendered the lamp impractical for commercial development and production. Several decades passed before electric generators made arc lamps practical for street and theater lighting.

In 1875, Pavel Nikolayevich Yablochkov, a Russian electrical engineer and inventor, developed the first practical arc lamp known as the “Yablochkov Candle.” Yablochkov used two parallel carbon rods to extend the life of the battery. During the Paris World’s Fair of 1878, about 64 Yablochkov candles were installed on the Avenue de l’Opéra, Plade du Théâtre Francais and around the Place de l’Opéra, earning the city the famous nickname of “City of Lights.” The success of the exhibition was influential in bringing electric lighting to the masses, and arc lamps were soon installed on many streets in the United States and Europe.